Method of making applique shoes



July 28, 1936.- R. J. REGAN METHOD 6F MAKING APPLI UE SHOES Filed July 6,' 1935 2 Sheet-Sheet 1 July 28, 1936. R. J. REGAN METHOD OF MAKING ABPLIQUEI SHOES Fiied July 6, 19:55 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 cost of atented July 28, 1936 PTENT OFFICE NETHOD F l' APPLIQUE SHOES This invention relates to a method of assembling shoe parts in making appliqu shoes or assembling overlapping uppers of shoes.

In making of appliqu shoes, (or assembling overlapping uppers) the use of this improved method. makes considerable saving in the present making appliqu or overlapping upper shoes by doing the work more quickly, simply, accurately and efliiciently. By this method, for instance, three cases of shoes can be appliqud and stitched in the same time two cases formerly took. The time involved in spacing and stitching the appliqu to the shoe, is thus cut one third. The steps of marking on the shoe by an ink or impression marker the space to which the appliqu is to be fitted, and of removing the ink markings in the treeing room, are eliminated entirely. The appliqu can also be applied more accurately, and thus eliminate the loss and waste of replacing improperly positioned appliqus. The appliqu can also be applied more easily and simply, eliminating the difliculty of holding the applique by hand under the older method. These savings in time, labor and waste result in a very considerable savings in the cost of making appliqu shoes} In addition, the use of my method permitsthe making of fancier and more complicated appliqus, which formerly could not be made in quantity production because of the added expense and greaterskill required.

As is w *{known in the shoe industry, an appliqu shoe is one ornamented by having a piece of leather or other suitable material of distinctive pattern applied to the shoe. The appliqu is ordinarily stitched to the shoe. The common practice in making appliqu shoes has been to mark oil or outline on the flat shoe piece to be appliqud, (vamp, quarter, tip or foxing) as by an ink or impression marker, the place to which the appliqu is to be applied, and then fit and hold the applique by hand on the shoe at this place while the appliqu is stitched to the shoe. Considerable skill, however, is required to mark a shoe piece properly and to hold the appliqu accurately in its proper position during the stitching operation. The appliqu often slips from its proper position during stitching, because the smooth surfaces of the pieces make it diflicult to hold them together accurately, or the operator is unable to holdthe appliqu to the mark, and time is lost' and waste occurs while the operator pulls out the stitching, replaces the appliqu with a new one, and stitches over again.

It is to be understood that what is here said as to appliqu shoes is true also of shoes having invention is, capable of other embodiments and overlapping upper partssuch as shoes having a pieced or split vamp, in which the vamp is made up of two or more pieces fitted or stitched to each other along one edge, or a four piece pump having a split vamp and quarters attached along one edge. Such overlapping upper shoes are not appliqu shoes in the usual sense, because the appliqu is a small piece of ornamentation, entirely attached or stitched to the shoe, and not essential to the construction of the shoe, while in overlapping uppers, the parts assembled are themselves basic parts of the shoe essential to its construction, such as two parts of a vamp or a vamp and quarter. In the appliqu shoe the appliqu constitutes a second layer of material on the shoe while in the fitted shoe the parts assembled constitute one layer in effect, being two layers only at their attached edges.

My method of making appliqu shoes preferably involves the use of two plates detachably hinged together, the lower or bottom plate receiving the shoe piece to be appliqud, (vamp, quarter, tip, or foxing) positioned thereon from a suitable gauge. The top or upper plate registers with the lower plate and has openings cut in it permitting the application of adhesive to the work beneath. The openings in the top or upper plate also preferably outline at least in part the shape of the appliqu pieces to be vfixed to the shoe piece beneath by the adhesive. The method, preferably, comprises placing the shoe piece (vamp, quarter, tip or foxing) to be appliqud on the lower plate, correctly positioning it from the gauge thereon, closing the upper plate down on the lower plate in registration therewith, applying adhesive to the shoe piece between the plates through the openings in the upper plate, inserting the appliqu pieces in their proper openings in the upper plate and causing them to adhere to the shoe piece beneath. The parts thus assembled can then be removed from the plates and the appliqu stitched to the shoe piece, as thus held properly positioned by the adhesive.

Before explaining in detail the present invention it is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to the details of construction and arrangement of parts illustrated in the accompanying drawings, since the of being practiced or carried out in various ways.

Also it is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein is for the purpose of description and not of limitation, and it is not intended to limit the invention claimed 56 herein beyond the requirements of the prior act.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of my device adapted for appliqu shoes; Fig. 2 shows the shoe parts to be assembled;

Fig. 3 shows my device with the basic shoe piece in position on the lower plate after adhesive has been applied thereto;

Fig. 4 shows my device with the applique parts in position therein;

Fig. 5 shows the assembled pieces with appliqus stitched thereon;

, Figs. 6 to 10 show the adaptation of my device to the assembly of overlapping shoe upper parts;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of my device thus adapted;

Fig. 7 shows the shoe parts to be assembled;

Fig. 8 shows the basic shoe pieces in position on the lower plate after the adhesive has been applied thereto;

Fig. 9 shows the shoe parts positioned and assembled in my device; and

- Fig. 10 shows the assembled parts as stitched together.

In the drawings ii represents the lower or bottom plate forming part of my device on which my method is used. Plate H is preferably of metal, flat and rectangular in shape, and preferably carries an edge gauge l2 for correctly positioning a shoe piece, such as the vamp I3 on the plate Ii. A second plate 15 complementary to and registrable with plate II is preferably hinged to plate I I as by detachable hinges i6, and contains openings or apertures I! outlining the shapeof I appliqus to be attached to the vamp H3. The

, plications of adhesive to the vamp M, the adhesive being applied to the shoe part 13 through the openings or apertures II by any suitable means, such as a brush or by spraying.

Shoe piece l3 having been properly located on lowerplate H by means of edge gauge l2, upper plate i5 is closed down upon it, and openings ll in upper plate l5 are thus brought into proper position on shoe piece l3 for the application of adhesive to shoe piece 83. Adhesive having been applied to shoe piece l3 as shown in Fig. 3, appliqus l8 are then inserted in their proper apertures l! in upper plate I5, as shown in Fig. 4, and are aflixed to the shoe piece it by -the adhesive therebetween, appliqus It being held in proper position on the shoe piece It by means of the adhesive. The appliqus i8 are then stitched to the shoe piece it in the usual manner, and the finished product, as shown in Fig. 5, is ready for the next operation.

Of course, if desired, the stitching can be eliminated entirely and the adhesive used exclusively ,to hold the appliqu onto the shoe.

When it is desired to make similar appliqud pieces for the other foot, upper plate l5 can be taken from hinges it, turned over and fastened up again, and the operations repeated for shoes on the other foot as before.

i It is understood, of course, that edge gauge I! in lower plate It and opening I! in upper plate I5 is changed in shape and position as necessary for each individual design of appliqud shoe. Quarters and foxings may be ap-' pliqud interchangeably with the vamp l3 shown in the drawings. Furthermore without departing from the spirit of my invention,it is to be understood that the operation and parts can be reversed, and the applique pieces l8 can be positioned on lower plate II by means of suitable indentations thereon similar in shape to openings I! in the upper plate I 5. Appliqus it are then arranged on lower plate ll, upper plate l5 closed down, adhesive applied to appliqus l8 5 through opening H, the plates opened up again and the shoe piece l3 aflixed face down to appliqus 18, being properly positioned thereon by means of edge gauge i2. In such case the lower plate H carries the gauges for both the appliqus and the shoe piece l3, the indentations (not shown) on lower plate II, but similar in outline to openings I! on upper plate l5 serving as gauges for positioning the applique pieces l8, and openings H in upper plate l5 serving 15 only as locating means for the proper application of the adhesive. In Figs. 6 to 10 inclusive 1 have shown an adaption of my method to the assembling of overlapping parts of uppers, such as shoes havtion of edge gauges l2 and with openings I1 and 2 l9 positioned and shaped to accommodate the diflerent kinds of work here involved. As shown in Figs. '1 and 10, numerals I30. and 13h represent parts of a pieced or split vamp, which when -joined together make up a complete vamp. The vamp piece i3a is positioned on .lower plate H by means of edge gauges i2 thereon, and upper plate 151s closed down upon lower plate H. Openings t1 and IS in upper plate l5 are so shaped and positioned with respect to vamp, piece its, as to leave exposed when plate It is in closed position, only the edge strips 29- and 2!, to which adhesive is then applied, as in the case 'of appliqus. The vamp piece i3!) is then inserted in its complementary opening il in upper. plate l5, and is thus correctly positioned with respect to vamp piece I341, by means of the shape and position of its opening it, the piece i3b being attached to the piece l3a along th: edge 2% as noted by means of the adhesive placed thereon. Left quarter I8a and right quarter 18b is then assembled with respect to vamp piece its by inserting it in opening is in registration with the edges thereof, whereby left and right quarters I80. and i812 are amxed to vamp piecw its along the edge strip 2 l, which has been similarly coated with adhesive. The pieces I31: and lab and its and l 8b, making nip.the four piece vamp, are then withdrawn from between plates and i5, and pieces 13b and I81; and l8b'are stitched to piece Isa along their adjacent edges. Again when assembling the pieces for the opposite foot, upper plate i5 may be turned over, and in this instance edge gauges E2 on lower plate H mustoo be relocated, as they are not symmetrically positioned with respect to both right and left shoes. Preferably, however, a separate lower plate it with relocated gauges if already on it is interchanged, rather than relocating the gauges on the original plate H. v

It will be seen that by means of this invention, I have provided a novel and improved method for making appliqud shoes and for as- 70 sembling the overlapping parts of uppers. The difficulties of holding the respective parts in proper position during the stitching operation is entirely obviated and important savings in the cost of making shoes are effected. a;

I claim:

1. The method of assembling and applying appliqus on shoes in predetermined position, comprising locating the appliqud piece in predetermined position laterally and longitudinally upon a plate adapted to receive the same, bringing a second plate into predetermined relation with the first plate, applying adhesive to the appliqud piece through one or more openings in the second plate, locating one or more appliqus in predetermined position with respect to said appliqud piece, and afilxing said appliqu to said appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied.

2. The method of assembling and applying a pliqus on shoes in predetermined position, com,-

prising locating the appliqud piece in predetermined position upon a plate adapted to receive the same, bringing a second plate into predetermined relation with the first plate, applying adhesive to the appliqud piece through a plurality of openings in the second plate, locating a plurality of appliqus in predetermined position by means of said openings both with respect to the appliqud piece and to each other, and aflixing said appliqus to the appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied.

3. The method of assembling and applying appliqus on shoes in predetermined positions, comprising locating the appliqud piece of work in predetermined position upon a plate adapted to receive the same, bringing a second plate into predetermined relation with the first plate, applying adhesive to the appliqud piece through a plurality of openings in the second plate, 10- cating a plurality of appliqus by means of said openings in predetermined position both with respect to the appliqud piece and to each other,

affixing said appliqus to the appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied, and stitching the appliqus to the appliqud piece as thus held by said adhesive.

4. The method of assembling and applying appliqus on shoes in predetermined positions, comthe secondplate, locating an appliqu on said appliqud piece in predetermined position thereon through the opening in said second plate, and aflixing said appliqu to said appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied.

5. The method of assembling and applying appliqus on shoes in predetermined position, com prising locating the appliqud piece in predetermined position upon a plate adapted to receive the same, bringing a second plate into predetermined relation to the first plate, applying adhesive to the appliqud piece through an opening in the second plate outlining the shape of the appliqu, locating the appliqu on said appliqud piece in predetermined position thereon through said opening in said second plate, and aflixing said appliqu to said appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied.

' 6. The method of assembling and applying appliqus on shoes in predetermined positions, comprising locating the appliqud pieces in predetermined position upon a plate adapted to receive the same, bringing a second plate into fixed' relation with the first plate, applying adhesive to the appliqud piece through an opening in the second plate, locating an appliqu on said appliqud piece in predetermined position thereon through the opening in said second plate, affixing said appliqu to said appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied, and stitching the appliqu to the appliqud piece as thus held by said adhesive. 7

7. The method of assembling and applying appliqus on shoes in predetermined position, comprising locating the appliqud piece'in predetermined position upon a plate adapted to receive the same, bringing a second plate into predetermined relation to the first plate, applying adhesive to the appliqud piece through an opening in the second plate outlining the shape of the appliqu, locating the appliqu on said appliqud piece in predetermined position thereon through said opening in said second plate, afllxing said appliqu to said appliqud piece by means of the adhesive theretofore applied, and stitching the appliqu to the appliqud piece as thus held by said adhesive.

RICHARD J. REGAN. 

